Mini VCI Techstream Register Toyota Corolla 2007 4D Key

 Car model: Toyota Corolla 2007

Chip type: 4D67 chip required (correct transponder), like this

Remote control: for the central lock at 433Mhz

Techstream cable: Mini VCI Techstream J2534 cable

Strictly speaking, an orange adapter is enough to program the transponder, for example, this one:

It is much cheaper and easier, but if you want to play diagnosis in the feature, you can take the mini vci cable.

You can get a complete key with all the fillings, including a battery, like this

I draw your attention to the fact that the key blade is TOY43.
Those who just need a spare key can go down this path.
Well, a flip key, of course:

A simple key came first, we proceed to program the central locking buttons using the “2 Lock – 3 Unlock” method:
The driver’s door is open and the key is removed from the ignition.
Within 40 seconds:
Within 5 seconds: Insert the key into the ignition switch twice and then remove it.
Close and open the driver’s door twice.
Insert the key into the ignition switch and then remove it.
Within 40 seconds:
Close and open the driver’s door twice.
Insert the key into the ignition lock.
Close the driver’s door.
Within 40 seconds:
Turn the ignition on and off once to program a new key and keep the old codes, or twice to program a new key and clear the old codes.
Remove the key.
Within 5 seconds:
The system should lock and unlock the doors once or twice, depending on the selected mode.
Within 45 seconds:
Press and hold the “Lock” [1] and “Unlock” [2] buttons on the key at the same time for 1 to 1.5 seconds.
Press and hold the “Lock” button [1] or the “Unlock” button [2] for 3 seconds.
Within 5 seconds:
The system should lock and unlock the doors once.
If the system locks and unlocks the doors twice, the programming procedure has not been completed. Repeat the procedure with the button.
Repeat the procedures to program the remaining keys.
To exit programming mode: Open any door.
The method is working, if it doesn’t work out, try again, I succeeded the second time.

If you are already a happy owner of MVCI, then it’s easier to do it through Techstream.

 

To program the transponder, you need to install Techstream on a laptop and the drivers for cable that came with it. The network says that the software contains a certain file that is defined as a virus, but it is not, for this the seller asks to turn off the anti-virus program. In this regard, everything that you will do next, you do at your own risk.

 

Got version V17.00.023 installed.

We do everything according to the instructions and, after successfully checking the connection of the computer with the cable, we go to the car. We connect the interface to the car,  start Techstream, and an interface should appear with a choice of car equipment.

In my case, I saw my 4zzfe, set TMUK TMMT Product, – 0706 (the date of release of the car until 2007, 06 months), and click Next.

In the window that opens, on the left, click the Utility button, then Immobilizer, then Transponder Code Registration and see something like “Welcome to transponder code registration”.

Click Next and …
1 step out of 3 (timeout – 120 seconds):
– remove the key from the ignition;
– insert the key back into the ignition;
– turn on the ignition (do not turn the starter!).

Step 2 of 3 (timeout – 20 sec.):
– remove the master key from the ignition and click Next.

Step 3 out of 3 (timeout – 10 seconds):
– insert the key you want to program (do not turn on the ignition in any case, just insert it into the lock) and click Next.

Key registration will start, lasting 60-75 seconds.

At the end of the registration, exit the program, or register the next key.

You can check that the key has registered by the immobilizer light – it should go out if the key is in the ignition.

That’s all, the key registration is completed. If the blade is already cut, we start the car.

For the sake of which everything was started.

We disassemble the Ebay copy of the native key. Unlike the native one, there are 4 buttons in the Chinese CZ module. When all buttons are pressed, the module reacts with a red LED. The machine only responds to the open/close buttons. The signal reception range is not worse than native, as it seemed to me. After breaking out the side inner wall, the chip is easily removed.

We disassemble the flip key. It has a place for a transponder, the place for the central locking module is indicated by partitions. We assemble, check how the blade opens, how the buttons are pressed, cut the blade, start the car with a new key and enjoy the result. 

What is the cost of this event: a copy key, a mini vci cable, a flip keys, cutting a blade, as well as a couple of free evenings and the pleasure of the work done.
PS: the key did not fit into the sharpening machine, I had to disassemble it.
To disassemble, carefully knock out the pin.

The pin can be knocked out with a small piece of a large paper clip, it is the most in diameter.

http://blog.obdii365.com/2022/12/20/register-toyota-corolla-2007-4d-key-with-mini-vci-techstream/

Toyota Techstream vs Subaru SSM4

I installed Subaru SSM4 the other day (Toyota's equivalent of Techstream, their dealer tool) to see what was different between the dealer tools. Although there isn't much difference of the capabilities, ie. sensor monitoring, customization, key reprogramming - but I noticed a few differences between them that I didn't see in Techstream previously.
1. Techstream has explanations on customizations and utility tests whereas SSM4 has none.
2. SSM4 has a few additional customizations on the body control which isn't present in Techstream (see image below).
3. SSM4 selects by model year, or mini revisions from A to H. You should be able to see your revision on the sticker near the passenger door hinge.
4. You are able to view the calibration IDs/numbers of mostly each components (window control, ABS, combination meter, etc). IIRC in Techstream you were only able to view calibration IDs of the ECU and ABS/VDC.
5. Both tools are unable to reprogram calibrations, SSM4 spits out a generic error.

On the additional settings I have tried so far:

1. Destination setting: not sure what it does, but it cannot be changed (generic error)
2. MT/AT setting: no difference.
3. SUBARU/Toyota setting: the backlight on the LCD screen of the electronic aircon control turns off when the AC is off (AC OFF button pressed) for Subaru. For Toyota it remains on. Other than that - no other difference which I can tell.
4. Remote control starter setting: generic error, cannot be changed.

Tested on a Japanese 2015 MT GT86.

Mini VCI Toyota Techstream V17.30.011 Free Download

TOYOTA TIS Techstream V17.30.011 (11/2022) diagnostic software was tested working fine. The software can be downloaded free here. It is crack version with loader, does not require activation. 

 

Version: Techstream V17.30.011

Release Date: 11/2022

Region: All regions
Type: Diagnostic tool Software
OS: WinXP, Vista, Windows7, WIN8, WIN10, Win11 32bit & 64bit

Language: English, German, French, Spanish, Italian, Russian, Chinese, Turkish.

Vehicle coverage: 1996-2022 Toyota Lexus

Compatible devices: VXDIAG VCX NANO Toyota (don’t need MVCI driver), Mongoose pro, Openport 2.0, SM2 Pro, Godiag j2534, Mini VCI J2534 Item #SV46-D, SV46-D1

 

Free download Techstream 17.30.011 software incl. loader

Techstream Setup v17.230.011.exe  & patch

https://mega.nz/file/xxU1ACTT#gEDHjgmnVvJ5FEm1m74sjdi7M6fN4V1Dc8AkwgbQzZ4

 

Include:

• Techstream v17.30.011 with Loader (11.2022).exe
• Patch 32bit & 64bit
• Drivers.rar (MINI VCI driver 32bit & 64bit, VXDIAG driver and Godiag  j2534 driver)

 

How to install:

Run Techstream v17.30.011.setup

Select setup language

Accept license agreement

Install Techstream software InstallShield Wizard

Randomly input the customer user name and password

Wait until setup installation is completed.

 

Then install driver 32x or 64x bit

Finnaly run software from patch

How to Install Mini VCI Techstream on Win10 64bit?

 Many people have trouble loading Mini VCI Toyota Techstream software and driver on Windows 10 64bit system. Obdii365.com here shares some approaches to set it up on Win10 64bit.

If one fails, try another.

 

Method 1:

The guide below comes from a very helpful Australian forum.

It works.

This guide implies:
1) You know what you’re doing around computers and have the basic necessary skills to create directories, copy files, and import registry keys.
2) You download the file linked below (or have a Mini-VCI CD with the contents roughly matching the included files)

Win64 MVCI Driver for TOYOTA TIS
3) Your Techstream version doesn’t matter as far as I can tell, I’m using V12 (search v12 download on our blog).
4) Windows 10, 64bit (other 64 bit versions, 7, 8, etc should all work too)
5) Tested on Mini-VCI cable J2534 with firmware 1.4.1 (should also work on newer cables too)

Grab the file above, it contains the necessary Mini-VCI 64 bit files. Make sure you copy and paste the entire link and doesn’t parse the URL correctly.
For your own safety, feel free to verify the file is safe from viruses using https://www.virustotal.com/ or any other of the various online virus testing tools.

 

When you extract the file it will contain the following contents.

All right, let’s get to it.

 

1) Create some new folders under your C:\Program Files (x86) folder and copy some files there.
C:\Program Files (x86)\XHorse Electronics

then
C:\Program Files (x86)\XHorse Electronics\MVCI Driver for TOYOTA TIS

2) Copy the files FirmwareUpdateTool and MVCI32.dll from the linked ZIP file to the “MVCI Driver for TOYOTA TIS” folder.
It should look like this

I’ve found that every time I’ve installed the VCI drivers from the MSI file, it never created those folders, and put those two files in there. That’s one of the key steps to getting this working.

If those files aren’t in those folders, then Techstream won’t work with 64bit Windows and the Mini VCI cable. In fact, if you’ve done everything else on your 64bit system, check this first, and if those files aren’t in that folder try doing this step and test Techstream, it may just work.

 

Now, my version of Windows (Win 10 Creators Update – 1709) detected and loaded the drivers for the Mini VCI cable automatically. I’ve found that these drivers don’t always work, so I manually installed the drivers supplied in the ZIP linked above. To install them and enable them on your devices you do the following:

1) Under the ftdibus folder, right click the ftdibus.inf file and click install, and accept any warnings that appear.
2) Under the ftdiport folder, right click the ftdiport.inf file and click install, again accept any warnings that appear.
Get those out of the way before moving onto the next section.
1) Plug in your Mini-VCI cable and wait for windows to recognize it and load the drivers.
2) Open the device manager (Win Key+X then select Device Manager) and open the node “Ports (COM & LPT)” and double click the “USB Serial Port (COM?)” device, and then go to the “Driver” tab.
3) Refer to this image

– if the driver version is 2.6.0.0 then you don’t need to change anything, otherwise go to the next step.

4) If the driver version isn’t 2.6.0.0 then click on the “Update Driver” button.
5) Next click “Browse my computer for driver software”
6) Next click “Let me pick from a list of available drivers on my computer”
7) It should list two drivers,

– the one Windows likes (2.12.28.0) and the one installed manually in step 2 which is 2.6.0.0. Select the driver version 2.6.0.0 and click “Next” wait for the drivers to install then close that window. It should now display the driver version as 2.6.0.0 as installed.
Now, it’s time to do the same with the USB Serial Converter device. So keep that MiniVCI cable plugged in.

1) With the device manager open, expand the “Universal Serial Bus controllers” node.
2) Double click the “USB Serial Converter” device and go to the “Driver” tab.
3) Following the same process in the previous section, check for and change if necessary the driver to version 2.6.0.0. It’s the same process, just replace the device name appropriately.
4) Once both the Port and Converter are on 2.6.0.0 you can now go back to the FirmwareUpdateTool.exe file that you copied and open it, once open click the “Device Info” button and it should say it’s connected, and return the firmware version of the cable.

That’s the Mini VCI cable taken care of.
—–

Now, you need to import the mvci-x64.reg file included in the ZIP. Without this imported, Techstream won’t know how to load the necessary files for the MiniVCI cable, namely the MVCI32.dll done in the first section. So simply double click it, and import it when prompted. It’s that easy.
—–
It’s implied you already have Techstream installed and licensed, this guide won’t cover that step (there’s tons of guides out there that cover it if you need it). You may also need the IT3 ini files in the zip for your Techstream. They go in the ENV folder inside the Techstream install folder.
Now, you should be safe to open Techstream and verify operation. So with the MiniVCI cable still plugged in, open Techstream.
1) Go to “Setup” then “VIM Select”. It should open with the Interface setup of “XHorse – MVCI”
2) Refer to this image at the bottom, with the arrow

Techstream should show “VIM – Xhorse – MVCI J2534 DLL v1.4.7” (dll version may differ if you used your own files) the key is, if you get this far and it’s not just saying “VIM – Xhorse – MVCI” (which happens when you open Techstream without the MiniVCI cable plugged in) then you should be right to connect to the car. So turn on the ignition and connect.

3) If it has all gone well, then you should be presented with a progress window and if you get this far then Techstream is talking to the MiniVCI cable on your 64bit Windows.

That’s it all done, have fun.

 

Method 2:

Get the correct driver from FTDI website. The document is to get Windows 10 64-bit computer to recognize the Mini VCI J2534 with 1.4.1 firmware (FT232RQ chip). This is not a comprehensive guide but rather should be used as a supplement to the plethora of driver + Techstream instructions available online. Hopefully, this will help others by reducing the number of hours it takes to get this damn thing to work.

The Mini VCI J2534 (aka MVCI) device is a OBDII to USB “dongle” used to connect laptops to Toyota/Lexus vehicles, often for the purpose of using Techstream. This device utilizes a USB to serial signal converter produced by FTDI (ftdichip.com). The chip is essentially a translator so that the computer can communicate with the vehicle, and vice versa. The MVCI I bought had the 1.4.1 firmware (not the 2.0.4) which has the FTDI chip part# FT232RQ.

1) I first started with a freshly reformatted burner laptop with 64bit Windows 10. Never connected to the internet, disabled auto update of drivers using three methods (1. Device installation settings – > “No, let me choose”, 2. gpedit.msc, and 3.regedit), and uninstalled the preinstalled/bloat anti virus.
2) Connected the MVCI to the laptop and saw an unknown device in the Device Manager. Note that only one unknown device was listed, NOT TWO! Many guides state that there should be two: one unknown/warning within the “Universal Serial Bus controllers” and one in the “Ports (COM & LPT)”. I was beginning to think that my dongle was somehow damaged since I only saw one.
3) The two commonly suggested methods for installing the driver for the FTDI chip is to either extract the driver files into C:\Program Files (x86)\XHorse Electronics\MVCI Driver for TOYOTA TIS or to use the AutoKent program, followed by the registry edit program. I did both extract and AutoKent, and ran the registry edit (mvci-x64.reg).
4) Updated the driver of the unknown device by Device Manager -> Right click -> Update Driver -> Browse my computer for drivers -> Let me pick from a list of available drivers on my computer -> Have Disk -> Browse -> [now navigate to XHorse or Autokent folder]. Neither worked as it now showed a yellow exclamation mark.
5) Download/transfer onto the laptop the 2.12.36.4 driver from (ftdichip.com/drivers/d2xx-drivers/) which is the most recent driver for 64 bit Windows. As soon as I dropped the driver onto the burner laptop, the Device Manager picked it up and auto updated, even though it shouldn’t have. The USB Serial Converter no longer has the yellow exclamation mark and the properties of the Converter shows a Driver Version of 2.12.36.4. The red LED of the dongle is now permanently on! Constant red led = computer understands how to use the dongle.
6) Install techstream.

Probably the two important steps were to 1) disable auto update of drivers and/or disconnect from internet and 2) download the latest FT232RQ driver. I was able to get this same cable to work on a 32bit Win7 machine months ago, but the cable would spontaneously work then not. I wonder if it was because the driver was automatically being replaced.

Anyways, all of that work so I can program a new key. The analog on-off (x5), open-close (x6) method to add immobilizers only works if there are 3 or less keys registered.

 

Keep updating…

Mini VCI Firmware V1.4.1 vs V2.0.4

 Which firmware version of Toyota Techstream cable is better? Mini VCI V1.4.1 or V2.0.4?

 

More info about mini vci j2534 with firmware 1.4.1 & 2.0.4:

The clone cables used 1.4.1 or 1.4.6 (latest) firmware.

The “real” cables use 2.0.1 or 2.0.4 (latest).

They are all clone Techstream cables of course but the good fakes use the same firmware as the real Xhorse cable. The 2.0.4.

 

Back Story:
1) Original TechStream cable/machine costs $5000+.
2) Drew Technologies created the Mongoose MFC cable as an alternative to TechStream. It’s legit and supported for TechStream Lite but the cable costs $500.
3) XHorse is a clone of Mongoose. Costs about $100. This is “legit”. 100% works with all modern Toyotas.
4) Chinese clone mini vci of XHorse. This is what most people are buying. The good fakes use the same firmware as XHorse. These ones will work just like the XHorse except you get no L-line support for flashing ECUs. This is fine for most people.

Firmware 2.0.4 supports all the diagnostic communication protocols needed for Toyota (since 1996). Better performance and compability ( Activate Test , Customize function, ECU Reprogramming etc.) !

The latest 1.4.1 firmware interfaces have both CAN chip (xx1050) and K-Line chip (fake discontinued si9241a = LM393 in a different circuit), so they may full support these 2 protocols for Toyotas since 1996+. Only missing VPW chip (and si9241a for L-Line).

They will not work on the 2011 Prius as some on PriusChat have said.

Fake 9241A chip

Real 9421A chip

LM393 instead of 9241a in a circuit for vag com kkl 409.1

 

 

Mini vci 2.0.4 firmware PCB

Mini VCI 1.4.1 firmware PCB

2.0.4 cable is now only available in ali or ebay, twice as expensive than 1.4.1 cable.  If you need to troubleshoot K-line Toyota/Lexus, 1.4.1 is fine. 1.4.1 is tested working with the latest Toyota.

MINI VCI Techstream V17 Tested Working on 2022 Tundra

 

There is no reason to try to update firmware. Interfaces with 1.41 will be bricked if you try to update firmware. There is not enough space inside the chip.

If bricked your mini vci j2534 cable, follow the DIY solution to fix it.

How to Fix Bricked Mini VCI J2534?

Read also:

http://blog.obdii365.com/2022/06/24/vxdiag-mini-vci-1-4-1-or-2-0-1-for-old-lexus-sc/

How to Repair Bricked Chinese Mini VCI?

 Here is the customer DIY solution for those who bricked their mini vci j2534 interface after using Firmware update tool.

SOLUTION:
STEP 1: Download the hex file attached.
STEP 2: Download Flash Magic (used version 13.20)
STEP 3: Connect the mvci device to an USB port
STEP 4: Open Flash Magic, select LPC2119 (LPC2000) in the field device
STEP 5: Select the serial port: i.e serial port COM3, try to remove the mvci device and plug it again to see if the FlashMagin detects the COM port automatically (maybe is better to remove all others USB devices during the process (my case))
STEP 6: Baud-rate: I selected 38400, but maybe other (lower) can provide a secure flashing.
STEP 7: In the Firmware panel update the .hex file.
STEP 8: Press the giant button START. The flashing should start, it takes a while (2 min aprox. for me, I read others could take 20 min)
STEP 9: When Flash Magic get out of the busy state, the process is finished, close the software and remove the device of USB port.

To confirm that it was restored to 1.4.1 version open the Firmware Update tools and check the firmware version.

Free download mvci-MVCI006000001

 

1. Be sure your device is connected and recognized by the computer. Try connect to your computer with driver FDTI FT232 (be sure your system is 32bits or 64bits). (MVCI J2534 china clone use this driver https://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/D2XX.htm)
2. Once connected, easily will be recognized by Techstream in Windows 32bits. For 64bits, you need search online
3. Save your current firmware with FlashMagic (Read & Save) before updating
4. Update Hex firmware 1.4.1 (attached compressed file, unzip the entire folder with 7zip or whatever unzip program)

NOTE:

FlashMagic access to LPC2119FBD64 microcontroller from MVCI J2534 selecting LPC2119 (LPC2000) in the field device. If FlashMagic don’t read your device, probably you have to open it to identifier the microcontroller type.

If the MVCI clone is built on a fake FT232R chip, it is possible the installation of fresh drivers has reset its EEPROM.
Years ago FTDI released a driver (2.11.0 and 2.12.0) that bricks chips that it believes to be counterfeit. What it did was to set the PID (Product ID) to 0000 instead of 6001 which renders the chip unusable as Windows cannot find a driver for it.
There are many post how to identify fake FT232R chip and how to fix it.

Once you are sure your device have PID 0000, one of the solutions is flash it with the attached archive that contains an ept file using “FTDI Mprog 3.5“

ft232r_eeprom

 

Feedback:
1). The drivers are ok.
I have 2 other white/transparent MVCI devices:
– cheap one  firmware v1.4.1
– full chip one firmware v2.0.4

Both work fine without any problems.
I even have the impression that the cheap one works better then the Full Chip MVCI.

2).

This worked. I was able to flash the .hex file using FlashMagic, and the dongle connects to the truck. I had previously flashed to 1.4.8, and then back to 1.4.1, but using the “official” firmware, not the clone firmware, while trying to use this on 64bit Windows. After flashing back to your 1.4.1 image, it works great. I’ll stick with my 32 bit Windows 7 image for now.

3).

I tried to recover my dead Chinese MVCI cable with mvci-MVCI006000001.hex file.
In my case, I need put LPC2119 to ISP mode before flash with the file.

To this, I figured out just short holes on P2 of the PCB when connecting USB.
  

LPC2119 entering to ISP mode if successfully, LED keeps green. (fig2)

I think it is successfully flashed my dead MVCI cable with the hex file.

 

In a nutshell, there is no reason to try to update firmware. Interfaces with 1.41 will be bricked if you try to update firmware.